An In Depth Guide to Overlanding in Morocco

In 2023 we set off for our usual winter overlanding adventures, choosing to focus on Spain and Portugal along with a Schengen-pausing trip into Morocco. We didn’t have anything specific booked but we decided that we would spend two months there. This ‘paused’ our 90-day Schengen allowance, making it an approximately 5-month long trip.

The North African country is only a short ferry trip from Spain. It is best known for its bustling markets, intricate crafts and diverse geography. The country is predominantly Islamic, but further to the south this shifts to an older, Beber culture. With this mix of cultures comes a similar mix in languages, with Arabic and Beber being the official languages, though French is also widely spoken as a result of the historic colonial situation.

Over the years Morocco has become a sort of mecca for overlanding travellers, off-road adventurers and those looking to get an introduction to travelling in Africa. We’d heard mixed opinions on the country, with a lot of people comparing it to marmite “you’ll either love it or you’ll hate it”. Honestly, I think we must be in the minority because while we didn’t hate the place, we also didn’t want to stay forever like a number of our friends.

I will say that the landscape was stunning. Between the rugged mountains, cedar forests and endless desert there’s a lot to see. There’s loads of freedom to get off-road and explore, and we met some lovely, friendly people. On the other hand, we quickly decided to avoid the cities and didn’t always find it very easy to interact with the culture.

 

 

The Logistics For Overlanding in Morocco

The Ferry from Spain to Morocco

The Spanish Side:

There are a number of crossing options to get to Morocco for your overlanding adventures. The most popular route is from Algeciras to Tangier Med. This is the route we took and it was a relatively simple process, simpler than we expected anyway.

We were able to buy our tickets the day before travelling from Carlos’ travel office in Algeciras. Carlos is a bit of a celebratory in the Morocco-overlanding-world. He is everyone’s favourite for buying their ferry tickets anyway. You can buy an open return ticket (for approximately £230 in 2023). This allows you to return at any point without needing to book ahead for the ferry. We could have gotten the ferry the same day but chose to stay overnight in Algeciras and cross to Morocco following day.

We arrived at the port area using the North Bridge (Norte Puerto). This seems like the easiest route in and from there we followed the signs for the ferry companies. After a quick ticket check we parked up in the boarding lanes. There are often people touting in the lanes and they seem to be mostly ignored by officials, but we did see a couple of guys get chased off by the police after they started getting a bit too pushy.

A while later a representative from the ferry company came around the vehicles and gave us our actual boarding cards and eventually we made it onto the ferry.

 

The Moroccan Side:

Immigration is done on the ferry travelling into Morocco so bring your passport and a pen to fill out the form you are given when boarding. You’ll have to present this at the booth in the main seating area so make sure you track that down early.

After getting off the ferry we were sent through the vehicle X-ray. Then the border officials insisted on putting their search dog through our truck for a cursory check. A local van nearby was made to unload everything from the vehicle so I’m glad we just had the canine-inspection! This is when you will be given your vehicle’s Temporary Import Permit so have your vehicle registration documents ready. The TIP is only a small slip of paper but it’s very important that you keep a hold of this. It allows your vehicle to stay in the country for up to 6 months (in case you decide to extend your personal 3-month, visa free stay). You must present it upon leaving the country.

Regardless of what time is on your ferry ticket don’t be too surprised if they’re running a few hours late. We were booked to cross at 5.30pm but didn’t arrive in Morocco until almost 10pm. Luckily you can stay inside the secure port area overnight. It has limited free Wi-Fi, a café and booths to buy your insurance, Dirhams, etc.

 

Taking the Ferry Back into Spain

We always seem to have a much easier time arriving off the ferry into a new country than we do leaving. Unlike the chaotic mess we experienced in Albania, Morocco was mostly confusing as no one seemed to be working. We arrived at the port, planning to just wait until the next available ferry either at 6.30pm or 10pm. When someone finally appeared in the ticket booth they said we could take the ‘7pm’ crossing. Of course, we only ended up leaving around 11pm. On the plus side, if we’d needed an extra Schengen Day this would have allowed us to exit Morocco on one day and arrive in Spain on the following day.

Normally your crossing day would count as a day of your Morocco time, and a day of your Schengen time. It’s important to understand how this works so you don’t run out of Schengen days. If you need to extend your time, you may need to extend your Morocco visa, continue to Mauritania, or (as long as you have a Schengen day left), you can pop into one of the Spanish enclaves (Cueta or Melilla) and return to Morocco. The later option resets your Morocco visa which will give you time to roll your Schengen days passed the initial 180 days.

Before we boarded, we had to go through the usual customs and immigration, although the lack of traffic and officials had us thinking we’d gone the wrong way at one point! Eventually we had our documents checked and they X-rayed the vehicle. They discussed putting the dog through but decided not to bother in the end. We had no issues, except that the customs officer wasn’t very happy with us. Apparently we’d interrupted her dinner, since we were so early for the late ferry! We re-entered Spain once we got off the ferry. This didn’t take long at all and we parked up in Algeciras for the night once again.

 

Driving in Morocco

Morocco’s road network is being improved the whole time. You can get almost anywhere you want on good tarmac roads now. There are a number of toll roads throughout the country now (‘A’ roads) as well as free ‘expressways’, but the ‘normal’ roads are all accessible with a non-4wd vehicle too. There are also plenty of opportunities for exploring on dirt tracks or completely off-road but the later should be done with careful preparation, planning and preferably with another vehicle, just in case.

Police checkpoints are important to watch for. Some of these only seem to focus on checking local travellers but others have a speed trap nearby, and lots of people get caught out and earn speeding tickets while driving through the country. We saw almost 100 checkpoints (I counted) and got waved through or ignored at every single one… right until the final 15 miles on our way to the ferry! The officer briefly checked our papers but seemed more interested in asking about our visit and finding our social media!

As always you should be aware of other drivers who don’t always follow the road rules you are used to and keep an eye out for animals on the road. It’s not unusual to find sheep, goats or even camels setting up their own roadblocks in the middle of nowhere. For those same reasons you should avoid driving at night. We actually managed to stick to this rule for the duration, which is unusual for us!

We used a couple of different maps for our overlanding trip through Morocco, mostly relying on Googlemaps for ‘on-road’ and GaiaGPS for off-roading. There are lots of pre-marked tracks or downloadable routes you can follow, plus you can record your own routes to save or share later.

 

 

Insurance, SIM Cards and Other Paperwork

Check your vehicle insurance policy before you go but most won’t cover Morocco. We chose to buy insurance in the port at the ‘Automobile Insurance Kiosk’ (35.870872, -5.520327). While it was only 3^rd party insurance, we were legally covered to drive. Coverage was £165 for 3 months and we exchanged some euros into Dirhams in the neighbouring kiosk.

We decided against buying a SIM card at the port after hearing a lot of bad reviews. Instead, we bought a Maroc Telecom SIM from Carlos for €10 when we bought our ferry tickets. We used this for our SatNav initially but chose to buy an additional INWI SIM once we arrived in Chefchouen. This gave us unlimited data for £15! There were only a couple of places where we had no connection and aside from around 8pm-10pm (presumably peak time) it was fast.

We photocopied our passports, and vehicle documents before we left Spain, and printed out a few copies of our fiche. This is a form providing all of our basic personal and vehicle information which you can give to officials when they want to make a note of your details.

Also, don’t forget to buy your travel insurance like we almost did! Luckily, we were able to buy a post-departure policy but it’s worth having just in case. While we don’t have to worry about coverage for things like cancelled flights, the medical coverage could make all the difference on a trip that’s all about adventuring and getting off-the beaten path.

 

Supplies

Before setting sail to Morocco on our African overlanding adventure, we stocked up on ‘essentials’. Stuart had been told that tobacco (as opposed to cigarettes) is hard to find, so he bought plenty. Meanwhile I ensured we had supplies of cheese, soy milk and meat since we weren’t sure what to expect. We found alternative milks in the bigger supermarkets, but it was expensive, and we bought meat occasionally too. It was fine but we were careful about where we bought it as some shops had stocked, but non-functioning fridges.

You can buy basic ingredients in the local shops. Most provide a basin to fill with fresh produce and they price that by weight, leading to some very cheap and healthy shop visits.

As you might expect from a desert country, finding fresh water can be challenging sometimes. We have a 400-litre water tank with filtration and didn’t struggle, but if you carry a smaller supply you should take advantage of any refill opportunity just in case. We noticed a couple of sites claiming to have potable water but it was actually salty. Stuart did taste-tests before connecting to our tank to prevent contamination. The coast and desert, predictably, are the hardest places to find good water but with forward planning and the availability of bottled water in shops as a back-up you shouldn’t have any problems.

As for fuel, I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many new filling stations! We try to keep our 200-litre fuel tank half-full and never had any problems doing this. While off-roading it was quite easy to detour to the main road to refuel if necessary. But remember that your miles to the gallon drop significantly when off-roading so take that into account when you’re planning your resupply stops.

 

Cultural Differences

As it’s a predominantly Islamic country it is respectful to dress conservatively. I always covered my legs, mostly wearing baggy jeans (although in some areas I think a long skirt might have been better), always covered my shoulders and didn’t wear anything low cut. There was no need for a headscarf, but I wouldn’t have felt comfortable in shorts or anything revealing. Stuart also made a point of wearing shorts or a vest only when we were out off-roading or in particularly touristic areas. This might have been overkill but we figure you can’t overdo being respectful.

You should remember that Morocco operates on a different pace – particularly during prayer times or Ramadan. Things might take longer or seem less structured, especially in rural areas. If you visit during Ramadan, you may find site or shops closed at times throughout the day, so be prepared to be flexible.

You should also be conscious off Morocco’s limited tolerance for alcohol consumption. While it isn’t a completely ‘dry’ country there are a lot of areas where you cannot buy booze, and it’s more regulated than you’ll be used to. Saying that, we did see supermarkets in the bigger towns selling alcohol. A lot of campsite owners also seem to include an unofficial beer-tax when you visit! From our experience alcohol does seem to be becoming more of an issue. We had a couple of negative experiences with drunk Moroccan men – nothing dangerous but we were left feeling quite uncomfortable (but of course we know this is the case across Europe and the UK too).

Understanding these differences doesn’t take much, but it really helps you enjoy your visit and interact positively with the country.

 

Places to Visit When Overlanding in Morocco.

With the logistics out of the way, here are a few places to visit while overlanding in Morocco. This is really just a small snippet of the places you can check out. If I listed every interesting site we’d be here all day, but here are some of the highlights.

 

Historic Sites

Volubilis

Located near Meknes, Volubilis is the best-preserved example of Roman architecture in Morocco. This city has only been half-excavated but extends across 42 hectares. It was once the capital of the Kingdom of Mauritania and later became one of the most southerly cities in the Roman Empire. You can walk amongst the ruins and check out the intricate mosaics and ancient arches. Entry is 70 Moroccan Dirhams (£5.60) and there is guarded parking (for approximately £1) right outside the site.

 

 

Aït Benhaddou

Aït Benhaddou is an impressive example of southern Morocco’s earthen clay architecture. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, dating back to the 17th century, was once an important stop along the caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech. The well-preserved area has also been used as a filming location for numerous films and TV shows. It is free to explore, but you can only visit on foot. There is camper parking (for approximately £3.25 including overnight) near the main road (31.0407, -7.1276) or free parking a little further away.

 

Hassan II Mosque

The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is one of the largest in the world and is open to non-Muslim visitors. Its minaret stands at over 200m tall and was built partially jutting out over the Atlantic Ocean. The building is packed with intricate craftwork with stunning carvings and delicate designs. Tickets are 130 MAD (£10.50), and you must follow the rules in regard to being respectful and appropriately dressed. There is guarded parking (33.6057, -7.6332) just outside the mosque complex. The price seems to vary depending on the guardian, but it is approximately 50 MAD.

 

 Towns & Cities to Explore

Marrakech

Marrakech, the “Red City,” is a bustling metropolis offering a mix of traditional souks, palaces, and gardens. The world-famous markets are buzzing with people, both tourist and local. You can buy everything from jewellery and lamps to sweet treats and spices. There are musicians and snake charmers, laden donkeys and people everywhere especially in the Jemaa el-Fnaa square, the main plaza in the old city. Prepare to be overwhelmed! It is extremely easy to get lost in the labyrinth of streets and stalls so download an offline map or get a paper copy. Be careful getting directions too. You are as likely to find yourself being escorted to a helpful bystander’s uncle’s rug shop instead of to the place you were hoping to visit.

One of the biggest highlights is the Madrasa Ben Youssef. It’s an ancient learning centre which was built in the 1500’s and has brought together scholars and philosophical thinkers for centuries. The site was built which intricate architecture in mind and the geometric carvings and complex mosaics will definitely leave you impressed. The Bahia Palace and the Museum of Marrakech are also worth a visit while you’re in the city.

There are lots of guarded parking options around the city but I wouldn’t recommend driving around the busy streets. Instead, there are a few campsites outside the city with good transport links. This allows you to see the sites and then retreat to a quieter area for the night. Le Relais de Marrakech seems to be a favourite amongst overlanders at 100 MAD with all the facilities you would expect.

 

Essaouira

This coastal city is known for its fortified medina, vibrant arts scene, and relaxed hippy feel. The strong winds also make it a hotspot for wind and kitesurfing. The blend of Portuguese, French, and Berber architecture adds to its unique charm. You can wander through the medina or along the city ramparts. Make sure you check out the iconic blue fishing boats.

Parking isn’t so easy in Essaouira and there aren’t any campsites nearby either. A lot of overlanders seem to park at the Carrefour (31.496545, -9.752753). From there you can walk or get a taxi into the town centre to explore.

 

Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen, located in the Rif Mountains, is famed for its blue-painted buildings and relaxed atmosphere. Founded in 1471, the town offers a mix of history, culture, and stunning mountain views. This was our first proper stop on our trip to Morocco. It rained heavily the entire time but it was a nice, quiet town to wander around. One thing to be aware of however is the regularity at which people might try to sell you cannabis! Maybe it was because I still had dreadlocks at the time but it happened a lot. Most of them aren’t overly pushy, just offering you the option, but now you know!

We chose to use the campsite Camping Azila above the town as options for overnighting seemed a bit limited and we’d only just arrived in Morocco. For what you got, it was quite expensive by Morocco’s standards at 100MAD (£8.20), but it did the job. From there it was a 10–15-minute steep walk into the town itself, but you can get a taxi.

 

 

Natural Spots

Cedar Forest

Located near Azrou, the Cedar Forest is home to ancient trees and a population of Barbary macaques. It’s a great stop to enjoy nature and observe wildlife in their natural habitat. We spent a few days in the forest, visiting on our way south and again on our way back north. There are lots of forest walking routes to enjoy across the national park. You can park up on the edge of the forest (33.420148, -5.171941) or venture further in along the tracks. Please be respectful of the area and DO NOT feed the monkeys. They already raid the bins and encouraging wild animals to eat food from visitors will only ever end badly.

 

Sahara Desert

The Sahara offers an unforgettable experience with its vast dunes, star-filled skies, and traditional Berber camps. Depending on which part of the desert you visit you will notice differences in terrain. It varies from bright orange sand dunes to rocky otherworldly landscapes. Popular entry points include Merzouga, M’Hamid and Zagora, where you can embark on camel treks and enjoy desert hospitality.

We stayed at Haven La Chance Camp in Merzouga for 70 MAD. It’s right on the edge of the dunes, they do food and have a pool (although I think it was closed for winter while we were there), plus it’s a great place to meet other overland travellers.

Zagora is the go-to place for getting mechanical work done before or after you have a play in the desert. There are a couple of garages there who are determined to have visitors (to the point of chasing you down in the road and leading you to their garage, as we experienced) but they’re very friendly and keen to help.

M’Hamid is not far from Zagora and is the last oasis of the Draa Valley before you enter the desert. It’s a fairly quiet little town but it’s another useful spot to meet and team up with fellow traveller to go off-roading. We stayed at Camp Bivouac Hassi Smara for only (40 MAD or £3.25). Be sure to confirm the price if you want to eat there (we got stung on that one) but they gave us a free meal of couscous another night as they had extra so it balanced out, and the rugs and candles they put out on an evening created a pretty amazing atmosphere on the edge of the desert.

 

 

Atlas Mountains

Stretching across Morocco, the Atlas Mountains provide opportunities for hiking and experiencing diverse landscapes. The High Atlas region, including Mount Toubkal, Todra and Dades Gorge are particularly popular. Toubkal National Park has tonnes of hiking options for all abilities. The highest peak, Toubkal, is the main attraction for most visitors. It is a bit of a trek, especially as it rises over 4000m in altitude, but with a reasonable level of fitness and a good guide you can have an amazing experience in this remote region.

The Dades Gorge is known for its “Monkey Fingers” rock formations. Meanwhile, Todra Gorge features a narrow canyon popular with climbers. It’s worth driving both gorges as they’re equally impressive. The highlight of Dades gorge is the well-known switchbacks which are perfectly accessible even in an overland truck. From there you can continue to the Turtle’s Back geological formation (31.664225, -5.833783). We turned around there, having heard conflicting information about the road condition beyond that point. They are extending the tarmac gradually so check with locals or other travellers for an update.

We stayed at Camping Ait Oudinar in Dades Gorge. The owner greeted us with mint tea and cake, and fresh bread on a morning. On Fridays a tasty pancake breakfast is included!

It’s a stunning drive through Todra Gorge with the road running through a narrow slot at the bottom of the gorge. It was quite touristic at this spot with folk selling trinkets and tourists milling about in the road so watch you don’t squash any toes. But the rest of the drive was worth the effort as you can continue on to Imilchil, through miles of empty landscape. They clearly don’t get the same level of tourism further along the route, and everyone lives a much simpler life.

 

The Coast

Morocco’s west coast offers a very different landscape to the inland regions. With its long stretches of Atlantic beaches, laid-back surf towns and mild winter climate, it’s no surprise that this area has become a favourite among overland travellers.

Agadir is the main city along the coast. Although it feels more modern and resort-like than most of Morocco, it’s a useful stop for supplies, laundry and fuel. The roads in and out are good, and there are a couple of large supermarkets if you’re craving something familiar.

While we chose not to spend too much time on the coast we did take a few days to enjoy the beachy vibes of Plage Aourir and catch up with some fellow overlanders. It was fairly quiet but there were always a few surfers (of varying abilities) bobbing about in the waves. Meanwhile locals took travellers up and down the sand and neighbouring hills on camels, horses and quadbikes.

It is easy to move along the coast following the tarmacked main road, the N1, and then just ducking off to the villages along the shore as you go. There are a few free parking areas along the coast which seem to be tolerated for short periods of time. However, these spots do get cleared out by the police and military when they become too busy, so you may decide that a campsite is the more comfortable option. The attitude towards tourism does seem to have shifted slightly over the last couple of years, as modern development impacts on locals but most are still friendly and welcoming. Just be conscious of your impact as a tourist in their country and try to leave a positive impression.

 

Off-Roading

For us, one of the biggest highlights of the trip was going off-road and exploring the desert trails. We travelled on rough tracks, across dunes and through riverbeds for weeks. Our off-road sections covered from Taouz to Tagounite, M’Hamid to Foum Zguid, and Foum Zguid to Tissint. A lot of this route actually followed the original Paris-Dakar Rally route, which was pretty cool to follow. We also drove part of the Plage Blanche beach route.

The majority of the time we followed existing routes, choosing not to go too far off course. This was partially due to the proximity to the Algerian border but also because the terrain can become very difficult very quickly if you’re not careful. For all except the Tissint section we travelled with other overlanders who we teamed up with so as not to drive solo.

Along the way we passed a few military checkpoints near the border. Everyone was friendly and helpful, simply checked our papers and let us pass. The only exception was on the Tissint section. There was a large military training area and we were sent back to the main road when we got too close, which is fair enough.

We had a great time driving our overlanding trucks through the varied landscape of Morocco, and even saw some wildlife! There were plenty of camels, a handful of antelope and I had a very special sighting of a Fennec Fox!

 

 

Final Thoughts on Overlanding in Morocco

Overlanding through Morocco was one of the most varied and memorable driving trips we’ve ever taken. From navigating chaotic city streets and finding quiet forest tracks, to scaling high-altitude gorges and navigating through the Sahara, the range of experiences was immense. Whether you’re drawn to Morocco for its historic cities, natural landscapes, or the thrill of desert tracks, there’s something here for every kind of overlander.

What really stood out was how accessible much of Morocco is, even in a larger overlanding vehicle. While some areas required a bit of planning or flexibility, there was always somewhere to park up, refill water, or meet others on similar journeys. That said, Morocco isn’t without its challenges – from damaged roads to unpredictable weather and the occasional over-enthusiastic salesman – but it’s all part of the experience. Travelling here gave us the chance to slow down and pause our Schengen time. We also got to use our vehicle in a way we previously hadn’t experienced.

Just remember to take your time, talk to locals, respect the environment, and keep a sense of humour when things don’t go to plan. Morocco will surprise you – often when you least expect it.

 

 

To read about our other overland adventures, visit out Travel Section.